For years, many women have relied on chemical hair straighteners to tame their natural curls and coils. These products have become a staple in countless bathroom cabinets, promising sleek, frizz-free tresses with just a simple application. However, mounting evidence suggests that the chemicals delivering these smooth results may pose a greater threat than just a bad hair day.
Recent studies have linked the use of certain hair straightening products to alarming health issues. This has prompted the FDA to seriously consider banning these controversial cosmetics.
Let’s dive into examining why the FDA is considering banning chemical hair straighteners.
How Do Chemical Hair Straighteners Work?
Chemical hair straighteners alter the chemical structure of curly hair to make it straight. Often called relaxers, they are a popular method for permanently straightening hair until new growth occurs.
Hair is made of a protein called keratin. Within the keratin molecules are sulfide groups that can bond together via disulfide bonds. According to Drugwatch, when sulfide molecules form disulfide bonds, the hair bends and curls. More bonds lead to tighter curls and coils.
Chemical straighteners break the disulfide bonds in curly hair. This straightens out the bending and coiling of strands. However, different brands can impact hair differently in terms of dryness and breakage potential.
Some formulas may dry out hair more than others. According to hair stylist Tonya Herrell, one brand she used called Affirm made hair very dry and prone to breaking. She now prefers using a Black-owned brand called Congo that keeps hair lively and shiny while straightening effectively. In Herrell’s experience, the right formula choice can optimize straightening while maintaining hair health and conditioning.
However, the hair relaxer market size is estimated at USD 719.88 million in 2024 and is expected to reach USD 889.83 million by 2029, growing at a CAGR of 4.33% during the forecast period (2024-2029).
Despite this projection, why are chemical hair relaxers under scrutiny? Keep reading to know more.
What Are The Risks of Chemical Hair Straighteners?
Chemical hair straighteners and relaxers pose several health risks when formaldehyde is released during the chemical straightening process. Some brands contain formaldehyde, which is released as a gas when the product is applied to the hair and sealed in with heat treatment.
According to Professor Michael Kleinman of UC Irvine, inhaling these fumes can be harmful if a salon lacks proper ventilation. The FDA also warns against respiratory issues caused by inhaling formaldehyde fumes during the straightening process.
Long-term, frequent exposure to formaldehyde poses cancer risks. The FDA has found associations between formaldehyde exposure and cancers of the paranasal sinuses, nasal cavity, and nasopharynx in high-risk workers.
Short-term risks include irritation of the skin and airways that can trigger asthma or breathing problems. The greater the concentration and duration of exposure, the higher the health risks.
Research also links the frequent use of formaldehyde-containing hair straighteners and relaxers to higher risks of ovarian cancer, breast cancer, and uterine cancer. Using these types of products just 4 or more times per year was associated with increased ovarian cancer risk.
The severity of potential health concerns is very serious. So it has led to a surge in lawsuits including the hair straightener cancer lawsuit against manufacturers. The legal actions allege that companies failed to adequately warn consumers about the possible risks associated with using their hair straightening and relaxing products.
According to TorHoerman Law, there is mounting pressure on companies that sell products marketed for health and beauty purposes. These products may contain hazardous substances. Manufacturers of hair straighteners and relaxers are now facing lawsuits for neglecting to inform consumers about the potential dangers of their products.
This is not the first time companies have faced legal repercussions for allegedly putting consumers at risk with their hair care products. Previously, lawsuits have been filed against companies. These lawsuits were linked to an increased risk of breast cancer among users of their hair dyes or permanent hair color products.
Research Shows Elevated Cancer Risks for Black Women Using Hair Relaxers
Hair straightening products containing chemicals known as endocrine disruptors are widely used in the Black community to alter tightly coiled or curly hair textures. However, these chemicals can be absorbed through the skin or inhaled, and prior research has linked some to reproductive health issues.
In the largest study of its kind to date, researchers at Boston University examined data from nearly 45,000 Black women. They found evidence that long-term or frequent use of chemical hair straighteners was associated with a higher risk of uterine cancer among postmenopausal women. Individuals who reported using the substance more than twice a year or for over five years faced a risk of over 50% higher. This is in comparison to those who used it infrequently or never.
Lead researcher Dr. Kimberly Bertrand stated, “Our findings suggest a possible link between hair straightener chemical exposure and uterine cancer risk after menopause. Unfortunately, Black women also face disproportionate rates and mortality from aggressive uterine cancer subtypes.”
Participants provided hair product use histories and were followed for up to 22 years. During this time, uterine cancer incidence was compared between frequent straightener users and others. Even after adjusting for covariates, statistically significant higher cancer rates remained among postmenopausal frequent users.
The researchers believe these results underscore the need to further probe the potential health effects of hair straightener ingredients and constituents. As Black women are often underrepresented in health studies yet may have distinctive exposures fueling disparities, this study addresses an important knowledge gap.
Dr. Bertrand said “It’s crucial we raise awareness of possible toxic dangers and promote safer alternatives, stricter regulations, and policies banning natural hair discrimination to help reduce disparities.” Identifying hair products and routines presenting lower risks could improve women’s health overall.
FDA Fails to Meet Deadline for Formaldehyde Ban in Hair Products
The Food and Drug Administration of the United States missed its own deadline of April 20, 2024. They were supposed to submit a proposal to outlaw formaldehyde in hair relaxers and straighteners. In October 2023, the FDA proposed the ban and set the implementation date.
Banning formaldehyde, a known carcinogen, would increase awareness of health risks for many Black women who regularly use straightening products. However, when the deadline passed in April, the FDA provided no explanation for missing it.
As per NPR, in response to an inquiry, the FDA told NPR it was “still developing the proposed rule.” They declined to provide details on timing or contents. A month later, the agency stated the ban remains a priority but still refused additional comments.
The potential health impacts of formaldehyde in these products are concerning. In 2022, NIH researchers found links between chemical exposures and increased hormone-related cancer risk in women, disproportionately impacting Black consumers.
Lead author Alexandra White said while an estimated 1.64% of never-users would develop uterine cancer by age 70, that number jumped to 4.05% for frequent straightener customers.
The FDA’s failure to meet its self-imposed deadline or provide transparency raises questions about its commitment to protecting the public. This lack of action is a concern given the known health hazards in widely used personal care products. Consumers await concrete regulatory action on this important women’s health and racial equity issue.
FAQs
1. Which is better, Japanese straightening or keratin?
A: Japanese and L’Oreal straightening methods generally result in very straight hair, even for those with tight curls. On the other hand, Cezanne Keratin Treatment offers a smoothing and de-frizzing effect, which reduces curls and waves but doesn’t completely eliminate them. Keratin treatment is also less harsh than the straightening process.
2. What is the safest way to permanently straighten hair?
A: Amino-acid treatments are a safe option for permanently straightening hair. These treatments use organic compounds to smooth and straighten hair, typically lasting between 6 to 8 weeks. They promote healthy hair growth and are much gentler on the hair, avoiding the damage often associated with other straightening methods.
3. Is organic hair straightening safe?
A: Yes, organic hair straightening is safe. These products are applied before using a straightener and work for all hair types. Without using dangerous chemicals, they efficiently straighten hair, lessen frizz, and add shine thanks to the acids and extracts derived from plants.
In the end, the mounting evidence of health risks associated with chemical hair straighteners underscores a critical need for action. The FDA’s failure to implement promised regulations further emphasizes this urgency. Black women, in particular, rely heavily on these products but face disproportionate burdens from cancer and other diseases linked to their use.
Stricter oversight and product reform are long overdue to address disparities and safeguard consumers’ well-being. The FDA can fulfill its duty to prioritize public health over industry interests only by banning known carcinogens like formaldehyde. Additionally, it must hold manufacturers accountable. The health of millions of women merits nothing less.
